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Two poets have loved it,
and we do not wonder, for it is the best little town in the island, old
village and new town together, sheltered by Shanklin Down and with the
extraordinary fissure in the cliffs called Shanklin Chine, a ravine about 60
yards wide and 100 yards deep, made by a stream cascading into pools in the
green depths below, falling musically down. Ferns and flowers cling to its
steep sides.
There are wonderful
walks through the trees and shrubs of Luccombe Chine with its hidden
talkative spring, and at the Landslip where great boulders thrust themselves
up ruggedly among low twisted trees. The hydrangea hedge on the sunny strip
of turf, known as Keats Green, was in its glory when we called, running for
three-quarters of a mile along the cliff walk, and Luccombe Common was
covered with gorse and daisies and little trees. Even without the ceaseless
murmuring of the sea through the trees it would be a captivating place and
we can well believe that, walking or living here, Keats would think out the
immortal opening line of his Endymion, "A thing of beauty is a joy for
ever." At the top of the Chine stands the village with its old cottages, its
ancient yews, vigorous elms and cedars, and a gabled and thatched inn with
little bow windows.
The town is rich in
public gardens where we may sit and watch the ships pass up and down the
Channel or listen to the community singing when the gardens are aglow with
fairy-lights. It is good to know that Shanklin's community concerts have
attracted attention far and wide and that singing is heard here not only in
English but in French, German, Danish, and Welsh.
The old church stands a
little aloof, drawing its cloak of ash trees about it in the shelter of the
Down. It has lost much of its ancient aspect, but keeps one of its i4th
century windows, a 14th century piscina, two l7th century chairs, and a
splendid 16th century chest carved with the name of Thomas Silksted,
Cathedral Prior of Winchester and the date 1512. The timbered lychgate,
handsome with its clock and bell, was set up in memory of a lord of the
manor.
The two poets who loved
this place were Longfellow and Keats. Keats began his long poem Lamia in a
cottage under the cliff in the days when he came to the island in his
pathetic search for health; and Longfellow came to the inn on the slope of
Shanklin Chine in the old part of the town. This verse he wrote is let into
a brick pillar from which water trickles for the thirsty traveller:
0, traveller, stay thy weary feet;
Drink of this fountain pure and sweet;
It flows for rich and poor the same, Then go thy way, remembering still
The wayside well beneath the hill, The cup of water in His name,
The little spring discovered by the court physician to Charles II is still
running bravely.
We do not wonder that
the population of Shanklin has gone up 50 times in 100 years, for it is an
enchanting place, with an average of five hours of sunshine every day, with
heights about 800 feet above the sea, and with down and copse in the safe
keeping of the National Trust. Darwin thought there was no place like it by
the sea and did some writing here.
Text courtesy of:
Southern Life (UK)
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